Hoyt Hill’s podcast Adventures of a Black Belt Sommelier recently featured a fascinating discussion with Laura Rhys, Master Sommelier and esteemed brand ambassador for Gusbourne, one of the premier producers of English sparkling wine. The conversation unfolded as an inspiring exploration of the wine world, highlighting Laura’s unique journey, the evolving English wine industry, and the legacy of Gusbourne.
The Journey to Becoming a Master Sommelier
Laura Rhys began her illustrious career with a deep love for wine that developed during her early days in hospitality in the UK. Her path to becoming a Master Sommelier was anything but ordinary. She worked at the esteemed Hotel du Vin, where she benefited from the tutelage of Gérard Basset, the revered Master Sommelier and Master of Wine (MW). This exposure to such a rich culture of expertise ignited her passion for wine and honed her skills in the field.
In 2010, Laura took the Master Sommelier exam in London, a significant milestone that defined her career. Reflecting on her experience, she shared, “I was working for Hotel du Vin in the UK, which was headed up by Gérard Basset… he had this amazing culture of knowledge.” Rhys credits Basset and her peers for creating an environment that was “full of young, very hungry, very determined sommeliers,” which fueled her dedication and drive to succeed.
English Sparkling Wine: The Emergence of a World-Class Industry
A central theme of the interview was the phenomenal rise of English sparkling wine, a category that has gained international acclaim over the past two decades. Rhys illuminated how the industry has evolved, noting that while the roots of English winemaking date back to Roman times, the modern renaissance began in the late 1980s and early 90s, with pioneers like Nightimber planting the first Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier vines.
Rhys emphasized, “We are seeing ripeness levels now that we would never have seen in the 80s,” and explained that the industry’s growth is due not only to climate change but also to increased investment and a wealth of new knowledge. “It’s not all about climate change,” she clarified. “We have winemakers who are going abroad… picking up great nuggets of knowledge and bringing them back to the UK.”
What Sets Gusbourne Apart
Hoyt Hill, a seasoned sommelier himself, expressed curiosity about what makes Gusbourne wines distinct and how they might compare to the renowned wines of Champagne. Rhys explained that while Gusbourne’s sparkling wines share stylistic similarities with Champagne, they possess their own identity. “With English sparkling wine, you do tend to have slightly brighter acidity structure and perhaps a little bit more of that very citrusy, green apple, brighter fruit character,” she noted.
Rhys highlighted that Gusbourne is committed to quality and authenticity. The winemaking philosophy, she said, is “definitely about making the best English sparkling wine we can.” She explained that although early producers often compared their wines to Champagne to gain credibility, today there’s confidence in celebrating English sparkling wine as its own distinctive category. “More and more now, producers are saying, this is English sparkling wine, and they should have that confidence,” she declared.
The Ambassador Program: A New Chapter
Rhys shared details about Gusbourne’s upcoming Ambassador Program, designed to connect with wine professionals worldwide who share a passion for Gusbourne and English sparkling wines. “It’s about finding a way to build a collection of really engaged, very passionate wine professionals around the world,” Rhys explained. This program seeks to build a network of sommeliers and wine enthusiasts who can champion Gusbourne’s story and wines, spreading awareness and appreciation for what the estate has to offer.
A Shared Passion and Memorable Moments
Reflecting on the human connections that make the wine industry so special, Rhys recalled one of her most cherished memories: winning UK Sommelier of the Year in 2009. “I was 27, I was a kid,” she said, remembering how Dawn Davies, a Master of Wine, came over to congratulate her. “She was this super amazing, open, generous woman… and I always felt really blown away by the fact that she’d come over and said such lovely, kind things to me.” This moment underscored the warmth and camaraderie that define the wine community.
The podcast concluded with Hoyt Hill praising Rhys for her insights and passion, expressing his excitement to one day experience Gusbourne’s wines firsthand. The conversation between Hill and Rhys was a celebration of wine’s power to connect people and a testament to the bright future of English sparkling wine.