Neil Martin’s recent visit to South Africa’s Cape Winelands included an insightful stop at Alheit Vineyards, a revered producer helmed by winemaker Chris Alheit and his wife, Suzaan. Nestled in the Hemel-en-Aarde region, Alheit Vineyards has become synonymous with precision, character, and a deep expression of place, producing wines that embody the best of contemporary Cape winemaking. In his detailed report, Martin sheds light on both the technical aspects and artistry behind Alheit’s 2023 releases, which stand as some of the finest to date.
The State of South African Winemaking: A New Chapter
In his candid conversation with Neil Martin, Chris Alheit offered a reflective perspective on the evolution of the South African wine industry. According to Alheit, the industry has matured, and the time has come to turn the page toward a new era. Alheit’s thoughtful and introspective nature has helped drive his success, and his wines often mirror his philosophy: precise, well-balanced, and always true to their origins.
Alheit discussed the challenges of recent growing seasons, offering insight into the subtle differences between the 2022 and 2023 vintages. While 2022 was marked by over-cropping and heatwaves, which impacted the quality of the harvest, the 2023 vintage benefitted from more favorable weather conditions. A cool spring and mild temperatures helped preserve the vibrancy and complexity of the early-ripening whites, while later-ripening varieties were met with occasional downpours in late January and February. Despite some challenges, Alheit noted that the 2023 vintage yielded 170 tons of fruit, a smaller and more manageable amount compared to the 250 tons harvested in 2022.
The Wines: A Testament to Precision and Character
Alheit’s meticulous attention to detail is reflected in the 2023 vintage, with several standout wines receiving top marks from Neil Martin.
2023 Fire by Night – 97 Points
Leading the charge in Alheit’s 2023 portfolio, Fire by Night showcases the incredible potential of bush vines planted in Swartland’s granite soils. Whole-cluster-pressed and aged in a combination of concrete eggs and foudres, this wine exhibits a mineral-driven bouquet with a touch of struck flint and reduction. Martin was particularly impressed with the taut acidity and complexity, describing it as sapid and spiced with lemongrass and ginger, leading to a remarkable finish. The 2023 Fire by Night stands as a testament to Alheit’s mastery in creating wines that are both refined and deeply expressive of their terroir.
2023 Cartology – 95 Points
Cartology, Alheit’s flagship blend, received a boost in 2023 with the inclusion of top-tier Chenin Blanc that would normally be reserved for Nautical Dawn. The result is a wine that Martin described as stunningly pure, with aromas of yellow fruit, peach skin, and lanolin. The wine’s vibrant acidity and mineral-driven finish make it one of the finest examples of a South African white in this vintage, with its long, complex palate leaving a lasting impression.
2023 Magnetic North – 95 Points
A product of ungrafted vines on their own roots, Magnetic North is another high-scoring wine from Alheit’s 2023 collection. Known for its intense minerality and purity, this cuvée reveals an invigorating bouquet of sea spray and flint. The palate is impeccably balanced, with a lively acidity and hints of menthol on the finish. According to Martin, this wine is “outstanding,” showcasing the precision and clarity that define Alheit’s approach.
2023 Hemelrand Vine Garden – 94 Points
Produced from vines planted in 2010, the 2023 Hemelrand Vine Garden carries a slightly honeyed tone, reflecting the botrytis-affected Chenin Blanc. Despite this, the wine maintains a clear and precise character, with a viscous texture balanced by fresh acidity. The distinctive style of this wine captures the unique challenges and opportunities presented by the 2023 growing season.
2023 Nautical Dawn – 95 Points
Nautical Dawn, a cuvée that was once part of the Cartology blend, has become a star in its own right. The 2023 vintage, grown on granite soils in Sinai Hill, is described by Martin as superbly delineated with notes of powdered chalk, dried honey, and lanolin. The wine’s energy and tropical nuances, combined with a vivid finish, make it a standout within Alheit’s 2023 offerings.
Innovations in the Cellar and Vineyard
Alheit’s pursuit of perfection is not limited to the vineyards. He has been making gradual changes in the cellar as well, shifting towards larger vessels, including diamond-shaped concrete tanks, concrete eggs, and foudres. This approach has proven particularly effective for wines like Fire by Night, which benefits from the granite soils and the unique characteristics imparted by these vessels.
In the vineyard, Alheit continues to innovate, recently planting Pontac, a red-fleshed grape variety that once thrived in Stellenbosch. The decision to incorporate this red variety into his predominantly white portfolio underscores Alheit’s forward-thinking approach to winemaking and his commitment to exploring new horizons.
Conclusion
Chris Alheit’s 2023 wines represent the pinnacle of modern South African winemaking. Each bottle tells a story of place, season, and craftsmanship, resulting in wines that are both nuanced and expressive. Neil Martin’s glowing reviews underscore the significance of Alheit’s work and affirm his role as one of the leading voices in the Cape’s ever-evolving wine industry. With a bright future ahead and a commitment to both tradition and innovation, Alheit Vineyards continues to raise the bar for South African wines on the global stage.
