Hoyt Hill, host of Adventures of a Black Belt Sommelier, recently sat down for a captivating discussion with Amaury Devillard, owner and director of Château de Chamirey, to explore the history, diversity, and magic of Burgundy wines. The conversation, sparked through a mutual connection with wine industry legend Bartholomew Broadbent, offered a deep dive into Burgundy’s unique terroir, the artistry of winemaking, and the traditions that make this renowned region so special.
Amaury Devillard shared his family’s deep roots in Burgundy, tracing their history back to the 12th century in Mercurey, a key village in the Côte Chalonnaise. With a warm and engaging storytelling style, Devillard recounted how his great-grandparents purchased the historic Château de Chamirey estate, passing its legacy to the next generation during a memorable Sunday lunch. Since then, the Devillard family has expanded their holdings to include Domaine des Perdrix in Nuits-Saint-Georges, Domaine de la Ferté in Givry, and a property in the Mâconnais specializing in Chardonnay.
The Unique Terroir of Burgundy
Throughout the conversation, Devillard emphasized the incredible diversity of Burgundy’s terroir, where even small distances can result in vastly different wines. He shared anecdotes illustrating this complexity, including a vivid memory of the late Becky Wasserman, a revered figure in Burgundy, demonstrating subtle variations in temperature and soil across mere meters of vineyard. For Devillard, Burgundy is not complicated but rather rich with nuance, offering endless opportunities for exploration.
Challenges and Misconceptions
The discussion also touched on the challenges and misconceptions surrounding Burgundy wines. Devillard highlighted the limited production capacity of many Burgundy estates, contrasting it with the scale of Bordeaux, and underscored the importance of understanding Burgundy’s appellations, vintages, and individual winery styles to fully appreciate its wines. Despite global demand driving up prices for some of Burgundy’s most iconic wines, Devillard proudly noted that Château de Chamirey remains committed to offering accessible, high-quality wines, including Premier Cru Mercurey, at reasonable prices.
Philosophy of Winemaking
Devillard’s philosophy of winemaking revolves around showcasing the purity of fruit, freshness, and the expression of terroir. He likened nurturing wines to raising children, emphasizing the importance of patience, attention to detail, and allowing nature to guide the process. Each vintage in Burgundy, he explained, is a blank canvas shaped by Mother Nature, requiring winemakers to adapt and create wines that evoke genuine emotion.
The Future of Burgundy
The conversation closed with reflections on the future of Burgundy and the next generation of winemakers. Devillard expressed optimism about the young talent returning to Burgundy, equipped with global experiences and a renewed passion for their heritage. He described Burgundy as a region best discovered on foot, where the beauty of its vineyards, villages, and wines can be fully appreciated season by season.
For wine lovers and novices alike, Hoyt Hill’s interview with Amaury Devillard offers a fascinating glimpse into the world of Burgundy through the eyes of one of its most dedicated stewards. From the family legacy at Château de Chamirey to the intricacies of terroir and winemaking philosophy, Devillard’s insights illuminate why Burgundy remains one of the most captivating wine regions in the world.
