In a recent episode of Adventures of a Black Belt Sommelier, host Hoty Hill sat down with Luca Paschina, the winemaker and general manager of Barboursville Vineyards, to discuss the evolution of Virginia wine and how Barboursville has earned international recognition. What started as an ambitious dream in 1976 has now become one of the most celebrated wineries on the East Coast, with wines that rival some of the finest from Bordeaux and Italy.
A Bold Beginning: Virginia’s Wine Revolution
When Barboursville Vineyards was founded by the Zonin family—renowned Italian winemakers—it was a leap of faith. Virginia was not known for high-quality wine, and the local industry was dominated by hybrids and non-European grape varieties. However, Paschina, who arrived at the estate in 1990, was determined to change that.
“We had plenty of vineyards, but we needed to change the spacing, the pruning, the rootstocks, and the clones,” Paschina explained. “By the late 90s, we finally made our first world-class wines.”
This transformation came through meticulous vineyard management, adopting superior plant materials, and fine-tuning every aspect of viticulture to match Virginia’s unique terroir.
International Recognition: A Defining Moment
While the American wine industry was initially slow to recognize Virginia’s potential, European wine critics were among the first to acknowledge Barboursville’s excellence. A turning point came when Michael Broadbent, the legendary British wine critic, tasted Barboursville’s 1998 Octagon—a Bordeaux-style blend based on Merlot and Cabernet Franc.
“He said, ‘I’m sorry, Bartholomew, but this wine is much greater than what you are importing,’” Paschina recalled, referring to Broadbent’s son, Bartholomew, who was distributing European wines in the U.S. at the time. This moment led to a glowing review in Decanter Magazine, putting Barboursville on the global wine map.
Within a few years, Barboursville wines were receiving major press, including a feature in The New York Times by renowned critic Johnny Apple. “That was the moment when people started taking Virginia wine seriously,” Paschina said.
Octagon: The Iconic Wine of Virginia
One of Barboursville’s most celebrated wines is Octagon, a red blend named after the octagonal drawing room in the historic Jefferson-designed ruins on the estate. Inspired by Thomas Jefferson’s passion for wine and architecture, Paschina created the label in 1996 to commemorate the vineyard’s 20th anniversary.
The 1998 Octagon was the first truly world-class vintage, followed by other exceptional years like 1999 and 2001. However, Paschina emphasized that Octagon is only made in the best vintages—if the fruit doesn’t meet his high standards, the wine simply isn’t produced.
“We didn’t release Octagon in 2000, 2003, or 2011,” he said. “We don’t have a set volume to reach; we only produce it when the vineyard gives us something truly exceptional.”
The Challenge & Reward of Virginia’s Climate
Unlike regions with more predictable growing conditions, Virginia’s climate can be highly variable. Paschina described the challenges of working with such a dynamic environment, but also how it has shaped Barboursville’s winemaking philosophy.
“Our wines are closer in style to European wines—moderate alcohol, fresh acidity, elegant tannins,” he explained. “In the 90s and early 2000s, some U.S. critics thought our wines weren’t rich enough, but now the world is moving towards more balanced wines. It took decades, but we stayed true to our vision.”
Despite difficult vintages, Barboursville continues to produce long-lived wines. “We still have bottles from the late 90s on our wine list, and they’re aging beautifully,” Paschina noted.
A Winemaker’s Journey: From Italy to Virginia
Paschina’s passion for wine runs deep. Born and raised in Alba, Italy, he grew up surrounded by Barolo and Barbaresco. However, he was drawn to adventure and new challenges.
“I had the opportunity to work in Napa and Switzerland, but I wanted to be somewhere less established,” he said. “Virginia wasn’t even on the wine world’s radar in 1990, and that excited me.”
After just one harvest at Barboursville, he was hooked. “I fell in love with the place—the land, the mountains, the potential. I knew this was where I wanted to build something special.”
Looking Ahead: The Future of Barboursville & Virginia Wine
Today, Barboursville Vineyards is at the forefront of Virginia’s wine industry, paving the way for a new generation of winemakers. Paschina is excited about the young talent emerging in the region, as well as the continued refinement of Virginia’s wines.
“We’re in a second phase now, with even more precise vineyard management,” he said. “Virginia wine has arrived, but we’re still just scratching the surface of its potential.”
As for Octagon, its legacy continues to grow. “Every vintage is a new story,” Paschina reflected. “And that’s what makes winemaking so fascinating.”
For more insights, listen to the full episode of Adventures of a Black Belt Sommelier with Hoty Hill, featuring Luca Paschina. Virginia wine is no longer a secret—it’s a world-class contender.
