In a recent episode of Adventures of a Black Belt Sommelier, hosted by Hoyt Hill, Bruce Tyrrell of Tyrrell’s Wines shared insights into the rich history of his family-owned winery, the unique terroir of Hunter Valley, and his unwavering commitment to producing world-class wines.
A Family Legacy Since 1858
Tyrrell’s Wines, located in Australia’s Hunter Valley, has been a family-run business since 1858. Bruce Tyrrell, the fourth-generation winemaker, has continued the family’s tradition while also innovating to maintain the winery’s reputation as one of Australia’s finest. The winery has earned numerous accolades, including being named James Halliday’s Australian Winery of the Year—a prestigious title it has won twice in the past 12 years.
Tyrrell emphasized the significance of his family’s deep-rooted connection to the land. “We’ve been here 165 years, and we’re still 100% family-owned,” he said. His son now manages the day-to-day operations, and there’s hope that the next generation will continue the legacy. “My grandson Henry, he’s just about to turn nine, and he’d live at the winery if he could,” Tyrrell added.
Hunter Valley’s Unique Terroir and History
Hunter Valley, located about 100 miles north of Sydney, is Australia’s oldest continuous grape-growing region. It was home to some of the earliest vine plantings in the country, thanks to James Busby, who brought back 660 grape varieties from Europe in the early 19th century. These vines laid the foundation for Australia’s wine industry.
Tyrrell proudly shared that his winery still cultivates some of the oldest vines in the world. “I’ve got a vineyard planted in 1879 that’s still on its own roots,” he noted. “And our Chardonnay vineyard, planted in 1908, is possibly the oldest continuous Chardonnay vineyard in the world.”
The Evolution of Australian Wine & The Screw Cap Revolution
A passionate advocate for quality and consistency, Tyrrell has been a leading force in Australia’s transition away from cork closures to screw caps. He recounted the frustrations of dealing with faulty corks, which often led to spoiled wine. “I wouldn’t have one of those filthy bloody corks in my winery,” he said. “I’ve poured too much great wine down the sink because of the cork industry.”
His winery made the switch nearly 30 years ago, ensuring that each bottle retains its intended flavor. “We put it to the test. In 1983, we bottled the same wine under both cork and screw cap, and after ten years, the difference was clear. The screw cap wines were perfect, while some of the corked bottles were undrinkable.”
This shift has been widely embraced by other top winemakers globally. “Even in Burgundy and Chablis, more producers are moving to screw caps,” Tyrrell remarked. “One winemaker told me, ‘We should be 100% screw cap, but bloody tradition and bloody stupid family are holding us back.'”
Hunter Valley Semillon & Shiraz: A Style of Their Own
When discussing Hunter Valley’s flagship wines, Tyrrell highlighted Semillon and Shiraz as two of the region’s most distinctive varieties.
Hunter Valley Semillon, he explained, is unique due to its low alcohol (typically around 11%) and crisp acidity. “It’s a simple winemaking process—cold fermentation, no malolactic fermentation, no oak. It’s all about picking at the right moment to capture the flavor,” Tyrrell explained. The result is a wine that evolves beautifully with age, developing complex notes of honey and toast while maintaining freshness.
On the red wine side, Hunter Valley Shiraz is known for its elegance and balance. Unlike some of the high-alcohol, heavily oaked Shiraz styles from other Australian regions, Hunter Valley’s approach is more restrained. “I don’t like 15% alcohol reds,” Tyrrell said. “I had one the other night from a big-name producer—it was all alcohol burn, oak, and tannin. I couldn’t even find the fruit.” Instead, Tyrrell’s wines focus on finesse, reflecting the region’s terroir rather than heavy-handed winemaking techniques.
Adapting to Climate Change
While global climate change has affected vineyards worldwide, Tyrrell noted that its impact is not universal. “Hunter Valley has actually become a bit wetter and cooler,” he said, contrasting it with other Australian wine regions that have become hotter. His team has adapted by implementing modern viticulture techniques, including using sunscreen sprays on vines to prevent sunburn—a major breakthrough for protecting grape quality.
Looking Ahead
As Tyrrell’s Wines moves forward, the family remains committed to upholding its rich history while embracing innovation. With a strong next generation stepping up, the winery’s future looks as bright as its past. “At the end of the day, the greatest compliment a wine can receive is when someone tastes it and says, ‘That’s bloody good,’” Tyrrell said. “That’s what we aim for, every single bottle.”
For more on this insightful conversation, listen to the full episode of Adventures of a Black Belt Sommelier with Hoyt Hill. Cheers to great wine and a legacy that continues to thrive!
