In the world of fine wine, few moments are as rewarding as engaging with the passionate artisans who bring exceptional bottles to life. Recently, Broadbent Selections had the pleasure of listening to Markus Huber on the Adventures of a Black Belt Sommelier podcast with Hoyt Hill. In the episode, Huber, the acclaimed Austrian winemaker whose 2023 Riesling from the Berg Vineyard received a stellar 100-point rating from James Suckling, shared insights on vineyard traditions, terroir, and the evolving nature of winemaking.
The Huber Legacy: A Family Tradition
Markus Huber hails from a lineage of vintners dating back to 1648, a history that is both impressive and commonplace in Austria’s wine regions. For Huber, winemaking is not just a profession—it’s an inheritance.
He often recalls spending his childhood following his grandfather into the vineyards, developing an early understanding of the connection between nature and the final product.
Despite this deep-rooted tradition, Huber has carved his own path, bringing international recognition to the Traisental region, an area often overshadowed by the more famous Wachau. His focus on precise, mineral-driven Rieslings and Grüner Veltliners has helped elevate the region’s reputation.
The Art and Science of Winemaking
Winemaking is a balance of science, intuition, and philosophy. Huber embraces both traditional and scientific approaches, noting that while science provides valuable insights, there are elements of viticulture that defy explanation. Biodynamic treatments, for example, have consistently proven effective despite limited scientific understanding of their mechanisms.
His commitment to terroir is unwavering. “The best wines are made in the vineyard,” he emphasizes. “In the cellar, we can only make mistakes. The goal is to preserve what nature gives us.”
This philosophy is evident in his Riesling Berg, which comes from an exceptional vineyard with red limestone soil infused with iron and manganese. The result? A wine of unparalleled depth, minerality, and precision.
The Subjectivity of Wine Ratings
Receiving a perfect score is a rare feat in the wine world. When asked about his Riesling Berg’s 100-point rating, Huber remains characteristically humble.
“It’s an honor, of course, but wine is subjective,” he notes. “The same wine that scores 100 today might be rated 97 tomorrow. The most important thing is consistency—delivering high-quality wine year after year.”
This mindset reflects the reality of wine criticism. Wine evolves in the bottle, and individual experiences vary. As Huber points out, “Even something as simple as the cork can influence how a wine tastes ten years from now.”
Climate Change and the Future of Austrian Wine
The impact of climate change on winemaking is undeniable. In Traisental, where cool-climate viticulture has long been a challenge, warming temperatures have actually been beneficial. “Thirty years ago, our grapes didn’t always ripen fully,” Huber explains. “Now, we achieve perfect ripeness almost every year while maintaining acidity and structure.”
However, the challenges are growing. Late frosts, hailstorms, and erratic weather patterns threaten vineyards worldwide. In 2024, frost and hail wiped out 20-40% of the crop, a significant loss for many producers.
Despite these challenges, Huber remains optimistic. His meticulous vineyard management and ability to adapt ensure that Traisental wines continue to thrive in a changing climate.
A Legacy in the Making
Markus Huber’s journey is one of dedication, vision, and respect for tradition. While he acknowledges the impermanence of individual legacies—“The world doesn’t need a Markus Huber; there will always be great winemakers”—his impact on Austrian wine is undeniable.
For those lucky enough to taste his wines, the experience is more than just a sip of Riesling or Grüner Veltliner. It’s a journey through centuries of winemaking, an expression of the land, and a testament to the balance of nature and human craftsmanship.
