In a recent episode of Adventures of a Black Belt Sommelier, host Hoyt Hill sat down with Al Ashmead, proprietor of Elderton Vineyards, to delve into the rich history, challenges, and triumphs of the Barossa Valley wine industry. From family beginnings in engineering and midwifery to revitalizing a struggling wine region, Al shares a story that blends personal dedication, tradition, and innovation.
From Civil Engineering to Winemaking: The Ashmead Family Story
The journey began in the 1980s when Al’s parents, neither winemakers nor grape growers, purchased a house in the Barossa Valley with 72 acres of vineyards. At the time, the Barossa was facing uncertainty, transitioning from fortified wines to table wines amid dwindling demand and government incentives encouraging growers to uproot old vines. Al’s father, a civil engineer, and mother, a midwife, took a leap of faith, recognizing potential where others saw decline.
Today, those same vineyards—now largely planted with Shiraz—are a cornerstone of Elderton’s success. Over the decades, the family has expanded to include three additional vineyards, with Al and the second generation building on the foundation laid by their parents.
Balancing Tradition and Innovation in the Barossa
A key focus for Al is balance—not only in family and business but also in their wines. He emphasizes that great wine requires harmony between acid, tannin, alcohol, and oak. Highlighting the 2021 Command Shiraz, Al calls it one of their standout vintages in the past 25 years, showcasing the culmination of experience, careful vineyard management, and respect for tradition.
Climate change remains a significant challenge for the region, as Al explains. The Barossa faces shorter growing seasons, water shortages, and extreme weather. In response, Elderton has adapted by harvesting earlier, producing less fruit, and focusing on premium quality. For Al and his team, innovation is essential to maintain the legacy of Elderton while responding to a changing environment.
The Value of Australian Wines
In a discussion about pricing, Al reflects on the balance between quality and accessibility. Elderton’s wines, crafted from century-old vineyards, offer exceptional quality at a fair price—a contrast to some high-end wines that remain out of reach for many consumers. Al stresses the importance of creating wines that people can drink, enjoy, and share, rather than relegating them to a cellar.
Family Legacy and the Future
As Al looks ahead, the future of Elderton Vineyards remains a family affair. The third generation of Ashmeads, including Al’s daughters and nephews, have already begun contributing to the business. With education, experience, and a love for the vineyard instilled from a young age, they represent the next chapter in the Elderton story.
Final Thoughts: Sharing Barossa Wines with the World
In closing, Al highlights the importance of showcasing Australian wines globally, particularly in key markets like the United States. By sharing their story and their wines, Al hopes to inspire new audiences to discover the beauty of Barossa Valley.
Whether it’s through their iconic Command Shiraz or personal moments of joy over a sip of 100-year-old port, Elderton Vineyards continues to champion quality, tradition, and innovation.
